Growing Psilocybin Mushrooms
(Magic mushrooms, Shrooms, psilocybin)
/3-(2-Dimethylaminoethyl)-1H-indol-4-yl/ dihydrogen phosphate
If you don’t know how to grow psilocybin mushrooms at home, you may be tempted to start with a mushroom grow kit. These ready-to-use packs contain a living mycelium substrate (the material underlying mushroom growth) that, in theory, you just need to keep humid.
In reality, you’re better off starting from scratch. Making your own substrate is not only more consistent but, if you do it right, it should be less prone to contamination as well. There’s also not a huge difference in price and you’ll end up learning a lot more.
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This guide is based on Robert “Psylocybe Fanaticus” McPherson’s eponymous PF Tek—the method that revolutionized growing mushrooms indoors. McPherson’s key innovation was to add vermiculite to a grain-based substrate (as opposed to using grain alone), giving the mycelium more space to grow and mimicking natural conditions. Although his method is a little more labor-intensive than others, often for a lower yield, its simplicity, low cost, and reliability make it ideally suited to beginners. It also makes use of readily available materials and ingredients, many of which you may already have.
The one thing you might have trouble getting is a good spore syringe. This will contain your magic mushroom spores and be used to “sow” them into the substrate. Some growers have reported issues of contamination, misidentified strains, and even syringes containing nothing but water. However, as long as you do your research and find a reputable supplier, you shouldn’t have any problems.
In any case, after you’ve grown your first batch (or flush) of mushrooms, you can start filling syringes of your own (see part 4).
WHAT VARIETY SHOULD I CHOOSE?
As you learn how to grow psilocybin mushrooms indoors, you’ll want to decide on a species and strain. Most suppliers offer a range to choose from, but the Psilocybe cubensis B+ and Golden Teacher mushrooms are among the most popular for beginners. While not as potent as some others, like Penis Envy, they’re reportedly more forgiving of sub-optimal and changeable conditions.
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What You Will Need
- Spore syringe, 10-12 cc
- Organic brown rice flour
- Vermiculite, medium/fine
- Drinking water
- 12 Shoulderless half-pint jars with lids (e.g. Ball or Kerr jelly or canning jars)
- Hammer and small nail
- Measuring cup
- Mixing bowl
- Heavy-duty tin foil
- Large cooking pot with a tight lid, for steaming
- Small towel (or approx. 10 paper towels)
- Micropore tape
- Clear plastic storage box, 50-115L
- Drill with ¼-inch drill bit
- Mist spray bottle
- Rubbing alcohol
- Butane/propane torch lighter
- Surface disinfectant
- Air sanitizer
- Sterilized latex gloves (optional)
- Surgical mask (optional)
- Still air or glove box (optional)
NOTE: Always ensure good hygiene before starting: spray an air sanitizer, thoroughly disinfect your equipment and surfaces, take a shower, brush your teeth, wear clean clothes, etc. You don’t need a lot of space, but your environment should be as sterile as possible. Opportunistic bacteria and molds can proliferate in conditions for cultivating shrooms, so it’s crucial to minimize the risk.
STEP 1: PREPARATION
1) Prepare jars:
- With the hammer and nail (which should be wiped with alcohol to disinfect) punch four holes down through each of the lids, evenly spaced around their circumferences.
2) Prepare substrate:
- For each jar, thoroughly combine ⅔ cup vermiculite and ¼ cup water in the mixing bowl. Drain excess water using the disinfected strainer.
- Add ¼ cup brown rice flour per half-pint jar to the bowl and combine with the moist vermiculite.
3) Fill jars:
- Being careful not to pack too tightly, fill the jars to within a half-inch of the rims.
- Sterilize this top half-inch with rubbing alcohol
- Top off your jars with a layer of dry vermiculite to insulate the substrate from contaminants.
4) Steam sterilize:
- Tightly screw on the lids and cover the jars with tin foil. Secure the edges of the foil around the sides of the jars to prevent water and condensation from getting through the holes.
- Place the small towel (or paper towels) into the large cooking pot and arrange the jars on top, ensuring they don’t touch the base.
- Add tap water to a level halfway up the sides of the jars and bring to a slow boil, ensuring the jars remain upright.
- Place the tight-fitting lid on the pot and leave to steam for 75-90 minutes. If the pot runs dry, replenish with hot tap water.
NOTE: Some growers prefer to use a pressure cooker set for 60 minutes at 15 PSI.
5) Allow to cool:
- After steaming, leave the foil-covered jars in the pot for several hours or overnight. They need to be at room temperature before the next step.
STEP 2: INOCULATION
1) Sanitize and prepare syringe:
- Use a lighter to heat the length of your syringe’s needle until it glows red hot. Allow it to cool and wipe it with alcohol, taking care not to touch it with your hands.
- Pull back the plunger a little and shake the syringe to evenly distribute the magic mushroom spores.
NOTE: If your spore syringe and needle require assembly before use, be extremely careful to avoid contamination in the process. Sterilized latex gloves and a surgical mask can help, but the surest way is to assemble the syringe inside a disinfected still air or glove box.
2) Inject spores:
- Remove the foil from the first of your jars and insert the syringe as far as it will go through one of the holes.
- With the needle touching the side of the jar, inject approximately ¼ cc of the spore solution (or slightly less if using a 10 cc syringe across 12 jars).
- Repeat for the other three holes, wiping the needle with alcohol between each.
- Cover the holes with micropore tape and set the jar aside, leaving the foil off.
- Repeat the inoculation process for the remaining jars, sterilizing your needle with the lighter, and then alcohol between each.
STEP 3: COLONIZATION
1) Wait for the mycelium:
- Place your inoculated jars somewhere clean and out of the way. Avoid direct sunlight and temperatures outside 70-80 °F (room temperature).
- White, fluffy-looking mycelium should start to appear between seven and 14 days, spreading outward from the inoculation sites.
NOTE: Watch out for any signs of contamination, including strange colors and smells, and dispose of any suspect jars immediately. Do this outside in a secure bag without unscrewing the lids. If you’re unsure about whether a jar is contaminated, always err on the side of caution—even if the substrate is otherwise healthily colonized—as some contaminants are deadly for humans.
- After three to four weeks, if all goes well, you should have at least six successfully colonized jars. Leave for another seven days to allow the mycelium to strengthen its hold on the substrate.
STEP 4: PREPARING THE GROW CHAMBER
1) Make a shotgun fruiting chamber:
- Take your plastic storage container and drill ¼-inch holes roughly two inches apart all over the sides, base, and lid. To avoid cracking, drill your holes from the inside out into a block of wood.
- Set the box over four stable objects, arranged at the corners to allow air to flow underneath. You may also want to cover the surface under the box to protect it from moisture leakage.
NOTE: The shotgun fruiting chamber is far from the best design, but it’s quick and easy to build and does the job well for beginners. Later, you may want to try out alternatives.
2) Add perlite:
- Place your perlite into a strainer and run it under the cold tap to soak.
- Allow it to drain until there are no drips left, then spread it over the base of your grow chamber.
- Repeat for a layer of perlite roughly 4-5 inches deep.
STEP 5: FRUITING
1) “Birth” the colonized substrates (or “cakes”):
- Open your jars and remove the dry vermiculite layer from each, taking care not to damage your substrates, or “cakes”, in the process.
- Upend each jar and tap down onto a disinfected surface to release the cakes intact.
2) Dunk the cakes:
- Rinse the cakes one at a time under a cold tap to remove any loose vermiculite, again taking care not to damage them.
- Fill your cooking pot, or another large container, with tepid water, and place your cakes inside. Submerge them just beneath the surface with another pot or similar heavy item.
- Leave the pot at room temperature for up to 24 hours for the cakes to rehydrate.
3) Roll the cakes:
- Remove the cakes from the water and place them on a disinfected surface.
- Fill your mixing bowl with dry vermiculite.
- Roll your cakes one by one to fully coat them in vermiculite. This will help to keep in the moisture.
4) Transfer to grow chamber:
- Cut a tin foil square for each of your cakes, large enough for them to sit on without touching the perlite.
- Space these evenly inside the grow chamber.
- Place your cakes on top and gently mist the chamber with the spray bottle.
- Fan with the lid before closing.
5) Optimize and monitor conditions:
- Mist the chamber around four times a day to keep the humidity up, taking care not to soak your cakes with water.
- Fan with the lid up to six times a day, especially after misting, to increase airflow.
NOTE: Some growers use fluorescent lighting set on a 12-hour cycle, but indirect or ambient lighting during the day is fine. Mycelium only needs a little light to determine where the open air is and where to put forth mushrooms.
STEP 6: HARVESTING
1) Watch for fruits:
- Your mushrooms, or fruits, will appear as tiny white bumps before sprouting into “pins.” After 5-12 days, they’ll be ready to harvest.
2) Pick your fruits:
- When ready, cut your mushrooms close to the cake to remove. Don’t wait for them to reach the end of their growth, as they’ll begin to lose potency as they mature.
NOTE: The best time to harvest mushrooms is right before the veil breaks. At this stage, they’ll have light, conical-shaped caps and covered gills.
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Psilocybin mushrooms tend to go bad within a few weeks in the fridge. So if you plan to use them for microdosing or you just want to save them for later, you’ll need to think about storage. The most effective method for long-term storage is drying. This should keep them potent for two to three years as long as they’re kept in a cool, dark, dry place. If they’re stored in the freezer, they’ll pretty much last indefinitely.
The lo-fi way to dry your mushrooms is to leave them out on a sheet of paper for a few days, perhaps in front of a fan. The problem with this method is they won’t get “cracker dry.” That is, they won’t snap when you try to bend them, which means they’ll still retain some moisture. They may also significantly diminish in potency, depending on how long you leave them out. Using a dehydrator is by far the most efficient method, but those can be expensive. A good alternative is to use a desiccant as follows:
- Air dry your mushrooms for 48 hours, ideally with a fan.
- Place a layer of desiccant into the base of an airtight container. Readily available desiccants include silica gel kitty litter and anhydrous calcium chloride, which you can purchase from hardware stores.
- Place a wire rack or similar set-up over the desiccant to keep your mushrooms from touching it.
- Arrange your mushrooms on the rack, ensuring they’re not too close together, and seal the container.
- Wait for a few days, then test to see if they’re cracker dry.
- Transfer to storage bags (e.g. Ziploc, vacuum-sealed) and place in the freezer.
REUSING THE SUBSTRATE
After your first flush, the same cakes can be re-used up to three times. Simply dry them out for a few days and repeat Step 5.2 (dunking). But don’t roll them in the vermiculite; just place them back in the grow chamber and mist and fan as before. When you start to see contaminants (usually around the third re-use), drench the cakes with the mister spray and dispose of them outside in a secure bag.
MAKING SPORE SYRINGES
Filling your own psilocybin spore syringes is about as self-sufficient as it gets.
First, you’ll need to take a spore print from a mature mushroom, i.e. one that’s been allowed to grow until its cap has opened out and the edges are upturned. You should also notice an accumulation of dark purple deposits around the base. These are the magic mushroom spores.
To collect them, remove the cap with a flame-sterilized scalpel and place it gills down on a sterile paper sheet. Cover with a disinfected glass or jar to protect it from the air and leave for 24 hours. Keep the resulting spore print out of light in an airtight plastic bag.
To load a spore syringe, scrape some of the spore print into a sterile glass of distilled water. You can find this at auto supply stores. Then fill your syringe (which should also be sterile) and empty it back into the glass several times to evenly distribute the spores. Fill it a final time and place it inside an airtight plastic bag. Leave at room temperature for a few days to allow the spores to hydrate. You can then keep the syringe in the fridge until you’re ready to use it. It should last at least two months.
ADAPTATIONS AND ALTERNATIVES
Numerous modifications have been made to the PF Tek method, both to increase yield and to make things easier. Different species also tend to produce better with different substrates and conditions.
The main alternative to the basic PF Tek is the monotub method, which involves spawning to bulk on coir (coconut fiber extract), manure, straw, or some other fresh and nutritious substrate. Eventually, you may want to experiment with some of these other methods, but the PF Tek is a good introduction for now.
How long does it take to grow magic mushrooms at home?
The time it takes for your mycelium-colonized substrate to put forth harvestable fruits depends on several factors. But the whole process of cultivating mushrooms should take between 1-2 months.
When to harvest shrooms?
You should be able to harvest your fruits 5-12 days after they first begin to sprout from the mushroom substrate.
The trick is to harvest them before the veil breaks, i.e before they fully mature and release their spores. In other words, the gills should still be covered. At this stage, your mushrooms should also have light, conical caps.
How to make a spore syringe?
We’ve included instructions for making a spore syringe above. You’ll need a sterilized knife or scalpel, a sterile paper sheet, and a disinfected glass or jar to gather psilocybin spores from a mushroom allowed to mature. Add the mushroom spores to a glass of distilled water and load your sterile syringe from that. After leaving it at room temperature for a few days to hydrate, you can store it in the fridge for at least a couple of months.
How to grow psilocybin mushrooms at home without spores?
Use a Psilocybe cubensis grow kit if you don’t want to add the mushroom spores yourself. The typical cubensis grow kit comes with an already colonized substrate for growing mushrooms in a box. They’re available for different cubensis varieties, as well as different species.
But magic mushroom grow kits are not without their critics.
What’s wrong with using a magic mushroom grow kit?
Despite their seeming convenience, magic mushroom grow kits are widely seen as a waste of money. Even if they work out at roughly the same price as starting from scratch, their contents and quality are uncertain. They can also be more prone to contamination.
Going by user reports, they may not even work. At best, they yield inconsistent results. Aside from anything else, using a cubensis grow kit won’t teach you how to cultivate magic mushrooms from scratch.
What is the best mushroom substrate?
Although tried and tested by generations of mushroom growers, the brown rice flour and vermiculite substrate may not be the best choice for everyone. It depends on your priorities. Brown rice flour is good for growing in bulk, but coir may be cheaper and easier to use. Then there’s whole brown rice (not flour), which supposedly yields more potent fruits.
Pasteurized horse manure is another good option since it’s high in phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium. And throwing spent coffee grounds into the mix (up to a quarter of the whole) could help speed up colonization. Of course, spent coffee grounds are economical too; 99% of coffee biomass that doesn’t end up in the cup is usually just thrown away.
Some growers say the best mushroom substrate is crammed full of nutritional diversity. However, too many nutrients from too many different sources can lead to contamination. As a beginner, you’re better off keeping things simple–not to mention cheap enough for trial and error.
What’s the difference between magic mushroom spawn and substrate?
As you learn more about growing mushrooms indoors, you’re likely to see the terms ‘spawn’ and ‘substrate’ used seemingly interchangeably (or just incorrectly).
Put simply, your ‘substrate’ (the brown rice flour/vermiculite cakes in the PF Tek method) becomes ‘spawn’ if it’s used to colonize a second, ‘bulk substrate’ (coir, manure, etc.) in the fruiting chamber.
If you’re fruiting directly from the cakes, as directed by this guide, your mushroom substrate remains the ‘substrate’ even after removal from the jars.
What are the best Psilocybe cubensis strains?
As mentioned in the guide, some of the most popular P. cubensis strains (or varieties) for beginners are the B+ and Golden Teacher mushrooms. Experienced growers may prefer Penis Envy.
However, as with your choice of substrate, the best cubensis strain for you will depend on your priorities for cultivating mushrooms. See here and here for more information.
How to grow magic truffles?
Forget about growing mushrooms in a box; truffles are often grown in jars instead of a fruiting chamber. See this tek for details. Another key difference to the PF Tek as outlined above is the use of boiled rye grain (aka rye berries) substrate.
Popular truffle varieties include P. mexicana and P. tampanensis, also known as ‘philosopher’s stones’.
Where can I find supplies for growing mushrooms?
One of the great things about the PF Tek method is that supplies are widely available. What you haven’t already got lying around the house can be found at your local hardware store.
The only thing you’ll need a specialist supplier for is your first load of psilocybin spores. The best way to find a reputable one is through forums.
For support and advice throughout the growing process, visit shroomery.org
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Learn how you can grow your own Psilocybin Mushrooms at home! This guide is intended only for the legal cultivation of Psilocybin Mushrooms.
How To Grow Magic Mushrooms Indoors
Growing psilocybin mushrooms is a rewarding experience. Watching mycelium consume a substrate and give rise to fruiting bodies is utterly fascinating. But the real magic happens when you sample your harvest.
If you’ve ever grown your own food, you’ll be well aware that the satisfaction of a job well done augments the taste. Now, swap out flavour for an introverted psychedelic voyage into the mind. A mushroom harvest is more than physical fruits; it’s a spiritual experience that can induce lasting changes.
Cultivating fungi is substantially more difficult than growing fruits and vegetables. The latter thrives in unsanitary, microbe-rich soil and will grow in varying levels of heat, humidity, and weather conditions. Mushrooms, in contrast, require extremely specific parameters to grow and fruit.
Fungi can be cultivated indoors by replicating the exact conditions they need to survive. This is achieved by growing them in high-humidity environments that are impervious to contamination. Methods such as PF-tek can be used to provide a clean and humid environment. To make things even easier, consider purchasing a grow kit.
Something else that sets fungi apart from the plant kingdom is their life cycle and means of reproduction. Before you start to grow mushrooms at home, it’s helpful to develop a basic grasp of this process.
The Mushroom Life Cycle: From Spore To Spore
Mushrooms start off life as microscopic packages of DNA called spores. Spores are analogous to seeds produced by plants. When subject to the correct environmental conditions, they release tiny strands of tissue called hyphae. This process can be compared to germination in the plant world. Each hypha carries a single nucleus. When two compatible hyphae from different spores meet, they mate and fuse together. Resulting hyphae will contain the nuclei from both parent cells. This creates an organism that is able to reproduce.
More hyphae form and create an organic matrix known as mycelium. This web-like structure releases enzymes into the environment and externally digests food. Mycelium is highly sensitive to external changes. When it runs out of food or is exposed to light, it produces primordia.
Primordia, or pins, are young mushroom fruiting bodies. The strongest pins grow into fully-formed fruits and go on to release spores. From here, the cycle starts all over again.
Sterile Technique: An Invaluable Skill To Develop
You now have a basic idea of how mushrooms grow and reproduce. Before we discuss cultivation methods, it’s time to learn the basics of sterile technique.
Mushrooms are up against a host of competitors in nature. They have to conquer all sorts of bacteria and fungi to secure a foothold. They sound tough, right? It’s only in a domesticated environment that they reveal how sensitive they truly are. Even minor cases of contamination can bring an entire grow operation to its knees. It’s for this reason that growers need to exercise extreme caution during every stage of the cultivation process.
How sterile you choose to make your lab space will depend entirely on the funds available. Experienced growers dedicate entire rooms to their operation. They cover the walls in plastic sheets and douse every object with isopropyl alcohol. Others make do working on kitchen countertops, yet still produce impressive results.
Sterility is only a major concern if you plan on making your own substrate and spore syringes. Cultivators using grow kits are dealing with colonised substrate, making contamination less of an issue.
Pinning: The First Stage Of Fruiting
Pinning is one of the most exciting times in the growing cycle. Once your mycelium has fully colonised the substrate, it’s time to expose it to different environmental conditions. This will trick it into thinking it has risen above ground and that it’s time to fruit. A hygrometer is a key piece of equipment during this stage. These devices display readings for temperature and humidity. During pinning, mushrooms require high humidity, high CO₂, and light.
For Grow Kits
If you’re using a grow kit, remove the lid and pour bottled water into the container until full. Return the lid and let the mycelium soak for 12 hours. Once time has elapsed, remove the lid again and drain off the excess water. Keep the lid for later use.
Place the kit in the bag provided and mist its interior walls once or twice per day until pins appear. Place a hygrometer inside the bag and aim to maintain a humidity of 95–100%. Fold over the top of the bag and secure with paper clips. Place it under grow lights or in indirect sunlight at a temperature of 23°C. Pins will appear within a matter of days.
To force pinning during PF-TEK, you’ll need a fruiting chamber. A large plastic box works great. Spray the inside down with isopropyl alcohol and cover the bottom of the chamber with soaked perlite to maintain humidity levels.
Now it’s time to remove your mycelium from the jar. Sanitise your hands and turn the vessel upside down. The cake of mycelium should slide out. Give the base a tap if it refuses to budge.
Load your cakes into the chamber with a good 5cm between each one. Apply the lid to maintain CO₂ levels. Mist the walls of the chamber 1–2 times per day to keep humidity at 95–100%. Open the lid once per day to enable fresh air exchange. Pins should appear within 1–2 weeks.
Fruiting: Caps And Stipes Begin To Emerge
During fruiting, primordia explode in size. Minute pins transform into large fruiting bodies with wide caps and long stipes (stems). It’s quite shocking how fast mushrooms grow during this time; in fact, they can double in size within 24 hours. In this phase, they’ll need more oxygen and slightly less humidity.
For Grow Kits
After pins have started to show, it’s time to up the oxygen level. You’ll need to open the bag three times a day to increase fresh air exchange. The demand for humidity also drops. Spray the inside of the bag once per day to maintain a humidity of 80–90%.
It’s time to let your fungi breathe. Growers often push the boat out and rig their fruiting chambers with computer fans and pumps. To keep things simple, open the lid three times per day and fan with a piece of cardboard. Spray the walls once per day to keep humidity at 80–90%.
Within 2–5 days, your mushrooms should be fully formed. You’ll notice distinct features on your crop. One of these characteristics is a sheet-like structure that begins to form under the cap. This is called the veil; it protects the spores until they are ready for reproduction. Aim to harvest your mushrooms before the veil tears.
Carefully twist each mushroom at the base of the stipe while gently pulling upward. Once you’ve collected all of the substantial mushrooms, you’ll notice small ones lingering on the surface of the substrate. These are called aborts—slow-growing mushrooms that were outcompeted by the rest of the pack. Remove these from the substrate to make room for another flush.
The Fun Isn’T Over, Prepare For Another Flush
Mushrooms are a gift that keeps on giving. As long as the resources are available, they’ll send out flush after flush to maximise their chances of reproduction.
For Grow Kits
Grow kits usually produce at least three flushes. Simply soak the block of substrate again as you did in the beginning and repeat the process.
After the aborts have been removed, submerge each cake in clean water. Place them back into the fruiting chamber and repeat the steps from the pinning section to stimulate a second flush. Stripping the substrate down leaves it vulnerable to contamination. If you notice any green mould start to form, discard the affected cakes and wipe down your fruiting chamber.
Growing magic mushrooms indoors can be complicated. Use this guide to maximise your chances of success!