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How to use the Plagron Feeding Chart

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If you’re looking to grow your own professional cannabis plants, regardless of growing preferences, you should definitely go with the Plagron feeding chart. You can choose between various different growing methods, additives and even substrates from Plagron. With their feeding chart you’ll be able to follow clear instructions that can make for professional results in cannabis plants.

Plagron opened up for business back in 1992, when they started off as a simple worm farm that would one day turn into an international leader when it comes to plant fertilizers. The best thing about this high-end fertilizer brand is the wide variety of products that they have in stock. If you already know about Plagron, go ahead and skip to the feeding charts – we’re going to do a quick run-through of some of their best products.

They have quite an efficient yet simple way of categorizing their products into colors:

  • Green: NATURAL
  • Red: TERRA
  • Blue: HYDRO
  • Orange: COCO
  • Purple: UNIVERSAL

This means that you can choose the right substrate and corresponding base fertilizers, alongside the Plagron universal additives.

Plagron Feeding Chart Substrates

Thanks to the amount of diverse products that Plagron has to offer, you can choose from a large list of different substrates; they stock organic, mineral and even coco coir substrates. Each substrate is reflected in the Plagron feeding chart below.

Lightmix: This substrate doesn’t contain many nutrients, which allows you for a more rigorous control of your plants’ feeding schedule. When you grow cannabis using this substrate, you’ll need to be quite on top of them and add any extra nutrients using base fertilizers and additives. This substrate contains non-organic minerals.

Growmix: This is a heftier version of the previous substrate, as it contains the perfect proportion of nutrients to feed your plants during the first few weeks of their growth process. You won’t need to fertilize as much when using this type of substrate. This substrate also contains non-organic minerals.

Allmix: This substrate is absolutely choc-full of organic nutrients, which is why we highly recommend it for organic, natural growers. It comes with plenty of nutrients too, so you shouldn’t even need to use a base fertilizer for the growth period, which could cause accidental over-feeding.

Royalmix: Just like Allmix, this substrate contains quite a high amount of nutrients. In fact, if you wanted to grow your plants using just this substrate without needing to add any other fertilizers, you’d probably get some pretty decent results. All you have to do is adjust your pH when you water your plants, although if you use additives you’ll get some of the best possible results.

Batmix: This particular substrate is designed to allow you to improve and increase aroma, effect and flavor in your buds in a fully organic manner. It’s great for autoflowering plants, allowing you to grow them without needing to use anything but pure water. The best results are obtained from seasonal strains, however, and when used alongside the necessary additives.

Plagron Feeding Chart Base Fertilizers

Alga Grow & Bloom: These two products are organic base fertilizers used in cannabis plants. They have a high content in natural algae – we do not recommend using these products in drip irrigation or automatic systems, as it does not fully dissolve and may end up blocking your pipes. Grow & Bloom are sold separately, and if you use a nutrient-rich substrate you may not even have to use Alga Grow.

Terra Grow & Bloom: These bases are mineral in origin and you can use them to obtain some truly professional results. Terra Grow contains a little extra nitrogen, which is exactly what your plants need during the growth period, whereas Terra Bloom contains much more potassium and phosphorus, which are needed in larger amounts during the flowering period.

Cocos A & B: This two-part base fertilizer is highly concentrated. They’re specifically made for growing in coco coir substrates, adjusting the pH of your water automatically so that you don’t have to. Keep in mind that coco coir substrates come with hardly any nutrients at all, which is why giving them such an intense diet is so important.

Hydro A & B: Another two-part base fertilizer, Hydro A&B is a product that’s designed specifically for hydroponic growing. It contains all of the necessary nutrients for plants grown hydroponically, and it won’t block any of your pipes or cause any sort of damage. When grown in an aquatic medium, the only source of nutrients that your plants have is what you give them via the water, so you’ll need to keep this in mind. That’s why Hydro A+B is such a highly concentrated product.

Plagron Feeding Chart Additives:

Power Roots: This particular additive is used to stimulate your plants’ roots – it’s one of Plagron’s universal products which is generally used with every different feeding chart in order to increase root size. Regardless of your preferred growth method, you can use Power Roots in order to increase the size and health of your cannabis roots.

Vita Race: If you’re looking for a potent growth and flowering stimulant, Vita Race is the perfect additive for you. Give your plants a little extra iron in order to keep them strong and green. Iron is incredibly important to cannabis plants, and if you give them a little extra all of these important processes are accelerated and stimulated. Your plants will grow much stronger, capable of absorbing more energy from the light and improving their metabolism in general. This product is used once a week exclusively as a spray.

Green Sensation: This additive is used alongside the necessary base fertilizers during the bud-fattening period. It can be used to increase and improve the flavor and aroma in your buds, as well as considerably increasing yield. This universal product can be used in any growing medium.

Pure Zym: This particular combination of enzymes is capable of helping you to increase microbial life in your cannabis plants’ substrate. Essentially, it tracks down your plants’ dead roots and turns them into nutrients that they can absorb. It also frees up a lot of space for new roots to grow where the dead ones were – this increases root size and therefore, plant size in general.

Other Products

The products we just covered are main ingredients in the Plagron feeding chart, however they have quite a lot of other more specific products such as pH adjusters and root stimulants for saplings and seeds.

Calcium Kick: this product is used to adjust any calcium or magnesium deficiencies in your plants, which tend to be the culprit of certain issues once your plants begin to flower. If you use pure or osmosis water, you will need to use this product. It’s also capable of adjusting the pH in your substrate.

Seedbooster Plus: If you tend to have issues when it comes to germinating your seeds or you’re simply looking to accelerate the process, Seedbooster Plus by Plagron can give you a hand with that. It gives seeds an incredibly small amount of nutrients and enzymes, and it can be used to revive old seeds and make them germinate. It also gives your plants enough nutrients to stimulate the first few roots and initial growth.

pH +/-: Some of Plagron’s products can adjust pH automatically, although not all of them can – that’s why they have specific pH adjusters for increasing or lowering acidity, as well as a fully organic pH- product for the flowering period, which is made out of citric acid.

How to use the Plagron Feeding Chart

One of the most basic things to keep in mind is that you’ll need to measure and adjust your pH as is needed while growing. Plagron feeding charts indicate the EC that your plants should be receiving each week. The amount of nutrients that your plants can absorb is directly affected by the pH of the nutrient solution you’re feeding them with. The most recommended pH for cannabis plants is between 5.5 and 6.5, although it can be adjusted even further depending on the method used and the phase your plants are in.

All measurements are per 10L of water, and the EC values assigned are for tap water – regardless, EC should never go over 3.0.

Organic Chart

If you plan on growing using organic nutrients, this is the feeding schedule you’re looking for. It has various different substrate choices, all of which are organic, and it also comes with Plagron’s universal and organic additives. Keep in mind that feeding charts are a simple guide; you may be growing a sativa plant outdoors, which will need more growth and flowering weeks. In cases such as these, you’ll need to use this chart as a guide, adding more growth or flowering weeks if necessary. The reaction that your plants have to this feeding schedule may differ depending on the strain, your climate and how much experience you have.

ALWAYS flush your plants’ roots out towards the end of the flowering period. This can be done by using just water for a week or two or by using a specific product designed for flushing plant roots.

Soil Chart

This chart is for those that would prefer to grow in soil and use mineral products. You can choose between two different substrates and use all of their universal additives that make for some of the best possible results. Keep in mind that feeding charts are a simple guide; you may be growing a sativa plant outdoors, which will need more growth and flowering weeks. In cases such as these, you’ll need to use this chart as a guide, adding more growth or flowering weeks if necessary. The reaction that your plants have to this feeding schedule may differ depending on the strain, your climate and how much experience you have.

ALWAYS flush your plants’ roots out towards the end of the flowering period. This can be done by using just water for a week or two or by using a specific product designed for flushing plant roots. Make sure to try and keep your EC at the same level indicated in the chart – these levels indicate the EC of your nutrient solution after adding the necessary products for that particular week. EC should never go over 3.0.

Coco Chart

For those that prefer to grow using coco coir slabs or bricks, this feeding chart contains the perfect doses of nutrients; coco coir is quite poor in nutrients, which is why this chart is so stacked. You’ll still need to keep in mind that feeding charts are a simple guide; you may be growing a sativa plant outdoors, which will need more growth and flowering weeks. In cases such as these, you’ll need to use this chart as a guide, adding more growth or flowering weeks if necessary. The reaction that your plants have to this feeding schedule may differ depending on the strain, your climate and how much experience you have.

ALWAYS flush your plants’ roots out towards the end of the flowering period. This can be done by using just water for a week or two or by using a specific product designed for flushing plant roots. Make sure to try and keep your EC at the same level indicated in the chart – these levels indicate the EC of your nutrient solution after adding the necessary products for that particular week. EC should never go over 3.0.

Hydro Chart

For the fastest and biggest results, we recommend growing hydroponically. Your plants’ only nutrient source in aquatic media is whatever you decide to give it via water, so you’ll need to keep a close eye on your plants when grown hydroponically. Keep in mind that feeding charts are a simple guide; you may be growing a sativa plant outdoors, which will need more growth and flowering weeks. In cases such as these, you’ll need to use this chart as a guide, adding more growth or flowering weeks if necessary. The reaction that your plants have to this feeding schedule may differ depending on the strain, your climate and how much experience you have.

ALWAYS flush your plants’ roots out towards the end of the flowering period. This can be done by using just water for a week or two or by using a specific product designed for flushing plant roots. Make sure to try and keep your EC at the same level indicated in the chart – these levels indicate the EC of your nutrient solution after adding the necessary products for that particular week. EC should never go over 3.0.

Find out how to use the Plagron Feeding Chart and more! Everything you need to know about this high-end fertilizer brand and their cannabis nutrient chart.

Best Feeding Schedule for Autoflowering Plants

All autoflowering cannabis plants , like any other plant, need nutrients to stay alive and grow. Plant nutrients are divided into Macro and Micro. Macronutrients are nutrients plants use in large quantities: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K). Micronutrients are the secondary elements and are absorbed in much smaller amounts: Magnesium (Mg), Calcium (Ca), Sulfur (Su), Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), Iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn) among others.

Both macro and micronutrients are delivered by watering with mixed nutrients, pre-amended soil, or slow-release powder, when feeding, remember that you can always add more but never take away nutrients.

It’s easy to over or underfeed and damage your plant, that’s why we recommend following the best nutrient schedule for autoflowers, specially designed for autos.

  • Week 1 Seedling – Plain water;
  • Week 2 Vegetating – ⅛ veg. nutes;
  • Week 3 Vegetating – ¼ veg. nutes;
  • Week 4 Pre-flowering – ½ veg. nutes;
  • Week 5 First signs of flowers – ¼ bloom + ⅛ veg. nutes;
  • Week 6 Flowering – ½ bloom nutes;
  • Week 7 Flowering – ½ bloom nutes;
  • Week 8 Flowering & ripening – Flush;
  • Week 9 Ripening & harvest – Flush;

1. Different Types of Nutrients

Nutrients can come in different forms. The most common are diluted in water, mixed with soil, and in powder form to be used as a slow-release top dressing or to be mixed with the medium. Usually, beginner growers ask What are the best nutrients? That will depend on your preference and method of growing, there are basically two types: organic and inorganic nutrients and there’s a big difference between them, both of them can come in the three different forms we talked above but work in completely different ways.

Organic vs Inorganic

Organic focuses on creating and maintaining a rich medium filled with microorganisms. By using organic nutrients you’re not feeding the plant directly, you are enriching the medium where microorganisms present to feed on the nutrients, breaking them down and making it easy for the plant to absorb.

Because you’re not feeding the plant directly, she can decide when and which nutrients to absorb so unless you do it on purpose, it’s really hard to have problems related to an excess or lack of nutrients.

Inorganic nutrients work by delivering an exact amount of nutrients to the roots. To be able to do this without any damage to your plant you must really know the necessities of your autoflower. The nutrients needed for optimal growth vary from strain to strain so it’s really hard to know exactly what and when to feed. Usually, you start experimenting and if you see signs of underdevelopment or deficiencies you feed a little bit more.

On top of that, you will have to adjust the amount given to an autoflower to avoid wasting nutrients (organic) and to avoid burning your plants (inorganic). Manufacturers usually make available instructions with an approximate schedule and amounts for the products they sell but they usually are directed to photoperiodic plants. Having that in mind, we recommend always starting with half the recommended amount with autoflowers.

Slow-release

Slow-release nutrients can come in pellets or in powder form. Usually used as a top dressing or pre-mixed with soil, this is the simplest way of feeding because it slowly releases nutrients when watering. So you don’t have to worry about feeding your plant until harvest unless you see any signs of deficiency.

The best way to water when using slow-release feeding is water more often with less water, this way the pellets or powder will dissolve faster and you won’t have any problems.

This way of feeding also comes with instructions directed for photoperiodic plants so with autoflowers you should (generally) use half of the recommended amount.

Tip: This way of feeding takes a couple of days to dissolve the pellets or powder if you water every couple of days. If you see signs of deficiency or you notice your autoflower is hungry, you can use a small amount of water-soluble nutrients to fix this immediately and give the slow-release nutrients a bit more time to dissolve.

Bottled nutrients

Bottled nutrients are what everybody knows, grower, or not. These fertilizers come in liquid form and are usually synthetic, and relatively cheap due to the wide selection available.

Synthetic nutrients are popular amongst all types of growers, even though they’re not s safe as organic nutrients, you can effectively grow and harvest your plants without major problems.

You can find a lot of different brands and their quality may differ but all fertilizers will contain basically the same elements and ratio for the vegetative (3-1-2) and the blooming stage (1-2-3), so it’s just a matter of preference.

Have in mind that unlike organic feeding which focuses in creating an ecosystem in the soil, synthetic nutrients feed the roots directly so you can easily burn your autos, you should always start with a smaller dose and increase it gradually, this way you can check the signs your plant gives you and can adjust the amount of nutrients to your plant’s needs, avoid wasting nutrients and most importantly, avoid burning your plants.

Remember that because these nutrients are synthetic they’ll most likely kill the microorganisms present in the soil so (depending on the medium) you’ll have to provide all the micronutrients too, like Calcium and Magnesium, for example.

We recommend using organic nutrients when possible, this way you’ll be maintaining an ecosystem similar to what you find in nature, resulting in better tasting flowers and avoid overfeeding your autos.

2. Nutrients for the Seedling Stage

The seedling sprouts with two little leaves called Cotyledons. These leaves provide what the plant needs to survive until the first set of true leaves appear. The first two weeks of cannabis growth are the most crucial because the little seedling is establishing its root system and it is very fragile.

When to start feeding?

If you’re feeding in the seedling stage you must be very careful not to overfeed. You can start your autoflower with 1/8 of the recommended nutrients or better yet, just give the plant water for that first couple of weeks. If you overfeed your plant at this stage of growth it is highly possible that the baby plant won’t survive or if it manages to survive then the overall yield of the damaged autoflower will be greatly diminished.

Tip: Water-soluble feeding gives the plant access to the nutrients immediately.

If you are using mediums with added nutrients then you don’t need to feed the plant for the first 2-3 weeks (until the pre-flowering stage). So you can relax and forget about those nutrients at this stage of its growth.

Tip: Always read the recommendations as amended mediums contain different amounts of nutrients. Some may have the amount needed for the first weeks but others can have the amount needed up to the pre-flowering stage.

3. Nutrients for the Vegetative Stage

Photoperiodic cannabis plants have a vegetative growth stage but autoflower plants go from the seedling phase straight to flowering without the need to change the light cycle .

Some growers believe that the time when the little seedling gets its true set of leaves until it starts flowering is the vegetative growth stage for autoflowers. But it really doesn’t matter how we call this stage because we need to feed it just like a regular photo-sensitive plant in its vegetative stage.

When we see that our autoflower plant starts to grow fast we need to start giving it more nutrients. Usually, it is best to give half of the recommended dose of nutrients, but if the plant gets really bushy you can give it a full dose.

At the vegetative stage, cannabis needs a lot of Nitrogen (N) and a decent amount of phosphorus (P) and potassium (K).

No matter what the percentage of the other nutrients is, just make sure that Nitrogen (N) is available more than those other two elements. Autoflower cannabis also needs those secondary nutrients but commercial fertilizers usually have a mix of the other nutrients your plant needs in the solution.

4. Nutrients for the Pre-Flowering and Flowering Stage

After a couple of weeks in the vegetative stage, your auto will be mature enough to start developing flowers, when this happens your plants will start to develop pistils, which are a sign that your plant is entering the pre-flowering stage.

When to switch to bloom nutes?

When the first pre-flowers start to appear you need to change your feeding to a mix of half vegetative and half blooming nutrients. You need to slowly start introducing more Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K).

Phosphorus is essential for bud production and has to be available when your autoflower enters the flowering stage. Once your autoflower starts really producing bud you should start feeding only blooming nutrients.

Some growers think that you must strictly go by the schedule when you are feeding your plants and if you don’t change your fertilizer your plant will not grow properly.

But the truth is that almost any fertilizer will do just fine. You can be very precise and if you have a lot of experience you can boost your yield with appropriate fertilizers but for beginners and medium level autoflower growers it is not as crucial. It is always best to give your plants less food than overfeed them.

5. Autoflower Nutrient Schedule

Cannabis plants don’t like to be overfed and they can easily get burned because of that, the amount needed for an autoflower depends on the strain and growing environment. The following schedule should be adjusted depending on when your plant starts flowering.

Chart for inert mediums

Week Stage Nutrients
1 Seedling Water
2 Vegetative stage ⅛ vegetative nutrients
3 Vegetative stage ¼ vegetative nutrients
4 Pre-flowering stage ½ Vegetative nutrients
5 First signs of flowers ¼ bloom + ⅛ vegetative nutrients
6 Flowering stage ½ bloom nutrients
7 Flowering stage ½ bloom nutrients
8 Flowering & ripening Flush
9 Ripening & harvest Flush

Have in mind that more nutrients does not result in more growth, some plants are more sensitive to nutrients. Overfeeding your autoflowers can affect your harvest because they will need time to recover and when this happens (especially in the flowering stage), it can take up to 7 days for them to recover and continue growing normally.

Note: This schedule is based on amounts recommended for photoperiodic plants, that’s why we use ½, ¼, and ⅛ amounts. If you were to use a medium with pre-added nutrients, then you should only water until you see signs of pre-flowering (around week 4) and only then start feeding following this schedule starting from the Pre-flowering stage.

6. Nutrient overfeeding

Overfeeding is the result of a too strong solution, as said above, more nutrients don’t always result in more growth and some plants are more sensitive than others.

When you don’t measure the dose of nutrients that go in your solution, you can overfeed your plants and they will surely show signs of deficiencies. Even though it’s a common problem amongst growers, the problems that come along are really serious and can end up killing your plants.

Signs of overfeeding are yellowing or yellow spots on the leaves and can be more serious if you don’t fix it, if you continue to feed a strong solution the leaves will start to brown, get crispy and die, this results in a stressed plant which will grow slower, can end up producing lower yields and ultimately die, so if you see signs of deficiencies you should flush right away, give your plant a couple of days to recover and start feeding again with a lower dose.

Have in mind that you can easily avoid this by using our feeding schedule above or just by simply using a lower dose than recommended and increase it gradually.

7. Nutrient underfeeding

Underfeeding can also hurt your plants, if you fail to provide the nutrients your autos need to produce sugars they won’t be able to grow and will show signs similar to the symptoms of overfeeding. Even though some plants can grow well without nutrients, it’s recommended you provide at least a minimum amount to make sure your harvest meets your expectations.

Remember that nutrients are extremely important so even though you may be afraid of overfeeding your plants, there’s no need to be, it’s normal for beginner growers to burn plants, even more experienced growers can burn plants when they’re trying a new nutrient brand so don’t worry.

Just make sure you learn with your mistakes and try to adjust the dose until you reach the optimal amount.

8. Flushing and when to stop feeding

Flushing consists of washing the excess nutrients from the roots and medium 1-3 weeks before harvesting. As you may know, all cannabis plants absorb nutrients to grow, when a plant absorbs nutrients there can be a nutrient build-up, although this is more common with synthetic nutrients, it can also happen with organic nutes.

Failing to flush properly can easily affect your buds, usually, plants which have not been flushed have a less potent smell and are harsher to the throat so if you want the flavor and smell of your buds to stand out, and a smoother smoke, we recommend flushing with plain water or flushing products which can be found in grow shops.

9. In Conclusion

Not only autoflowers but all plants are different in one way or another. You can follow schedules like the one we provided above but the optimal way to feed your plants is by understanding the environment you’re growing in and the cultivar you’re growing.

Our Purple Lemonade, for example, is a sturdy grower and will do perfectly fine without nutrients.

Usually, nutrients come with instructions for photoperiodic plants, learn how to adjust it with the best auto feeding schedule.