Root Riot Plant Starter Cubes | Root Riot Bags
Root Riot™ is a natural plant starter cube ideal for soil or hydroponics.
Download the Clonex Propagation Guide. It’s full of information on how to take a cutting, how and when to use Clonex and Root Riot products, plus it covers mother plants and transplanting.
Plant Starter Cubes
Suitable for both propagating cuttings and starting seeds, Root Riot cubes have been shown to consistently outperform alternative media. Root Riot cubes provide the perfect environment for root initiation and development. Made from composted natural materials, these plant starter plugs have a great spongy texture which retains the perfect air/water ratio for healthy, rapid root growth.
In short, you can’t go wrong by starting your seeds or sticking your cuttings in Root Riot Plant Starter Cubes!
How To Use Root Riot Cubes
Root Riot grow plugs are supplied already moist. If they have become dry to touch, simply re-wet by placing them in a bowl of lukewarm water. The plant starter plugs should be spongy and moist – not saturated. Ideally they should be at room temperature. Unused cubes should be kept in the plastic bag to prevent drying.
- Select cutting material – most species are best propagated from softwood tips. Prepare the material by cutting diagonally below a node or stem swelling. Remove all but a couple of leaves.
- Dip the cut end into Clonex Rooting Gel and then place gently into the pre-formed hole in the top of the cube. Do not force the cutting in, insert it just far enough to support it.
- Mist cuttings with Clonex Mist as directed, and cover the tray with a clear lid or plastic bag to increase humidity. Maintain this humidity with regular misting.
- Simply place seed into the hole of the cube.
- Put the tray in a warm place until germination.
Keep an eye on the moisture in the cubes, especially in warm conditions which will speed drying out. Ideally moisture should just come to the surface when squeezed. If not, gently water the cubes and then drain well.
The new plant is ready to be transplanted when roots are visible. Cubes can also now be transferred to any growing system.
Root Riot cubes are ideal for propagating plant cuttings or starting seeds. Root Riot cubes are pre-moistened and ready to use right out of the bag.
Make Super Cheap Seed Starters
Introduction: Make Super Cheap Seed Starters
If you want to start your plants indoors weeks before you can put them into the ground, soil blocks is the way to go. They have many advantages, but the main one is that soil blocks GREATLY reduce transplant shock, leaving you with more survivors in your garden. They won’t create root balls like starter pots or trays, they don’t limit roots in the soil like peat or paper pots, and they don’t destroy roots like flats.
Making soil blocks requires a soil block maker, or blocker. The blocker compacts soil into plugs that come with a preformed depression for placing your seeds. Getting your plants off to a good start has never been easier!
Step 1: Materials
Smooth can, either metal or plastic, with lid 2” – 4” in diameter
3/8” eye bolt, 6-8 inches long
2 or 3 3/8” nuts for eye bolt
2 washers for eye bolt
Several large trays (I like to use plastic bakery containers)
1/8” and 3/8” Drill bit
Step 2: Preparation
You can make these blockers any size you want, depending on the size of the seeds you have. A 2” block (½ pint size) is best for most seeds.
The main thing with the can selection is avoiding a corrugated can, like a soup can, as the soil doesn’t release well. Make sure you clean the can well before starting.
Step 3: The Plunger
Using the hacksaw, cut off the bottom of your can. Cut about 1/8” to 1/4” from the bottom of the can.
Cut slowly, and make sure you get a good, straight cut. This will become the plunger part of the blocker.
With your pliers, go along the end of the cut-off bottom and bend the 1/8”-1/4” of the remaining part of the can towards the center, so that you have a nice smooth circular edge without any sharp bits.
Mark the center of your cut-off bottom.
Drill a hole at your center mark, starting with the 1/8” drill bit for a pilot hole, and then step up to your 3/8” drill bit.
Drill a hole in the center of the lid, exactly as you did for the cut-off bottom.
Step 4: Assembly
Put one nut on your eye bolt, and thread it about 1 1/2” to 2” from the end of the eye bolt.
Place a washer on the eye bolt, followed by the lid of the can. If the lid has a protruding rim, make sure it faces the “eye” part of the eye bolt.
Now, slide on your plunger (cut-off bottom), and follow it with a washer.
Thread your last nut onto the eye bolt. The very last nut should be flush with the end of the bolt. Tighten the other nut against the last nut you put on. You should now have a very stable plunger. Note: if you are making a bigger blocker, put two nuts on the tip to make a deeper depression for larger seeds.
This plunger slides inside the main cylinder of the can.
Step 5: The Soil
Many soil mixes will work for a soil block, but this recipe will be almost fool-proof:
Eliot Coleman’s Organic Recipe
• 30 units peat
• 1/8 unit lime or ½ unit wood ashes,
• 20 units coarse sand or perlite
• 3/4 unit organic fertilizer (equal parts blood meal, colloidal phosphate and greensand)
• 10 units good garden soil
• 20 units well-aged compost
Sift all ingredients before mixing. Mix the peat and lime or wood ash first. Mix the sand or perlite with the fertilizer. Then mix everything together.
Step 6: Making Soil Blocks
Set up a nice large work area. You’ll want a hard surface like a concrete slab to dump your mix, and then another area to keep your trays and blocks once they are made.
Dump your mix onto your hard surface.
Wet your mix. Be careful with this step, as most people won’t add enough water initially. You want your mix thoroughly moist, and almost dripping water.
Make a large pile of your wetted mix. The pile should be a an inch taller than your block maker.
Place the plunger into the cylinder of your blocker. The eye should come through the top towards you.
Dip the blocker in water.
Now ram the blocker, bottom first into the mix until it hits the hard surface below. Give it a few twists and turns to make sure it is making contact with the surface.
Pack the soil lightly, but firmly with the plunger. This should “seat” the soil in the blocker.
Pull the blocker with soil out of your pile of mix.
Gently lift the blocker, and the soil should stay inside. If it falls out, try again, and gently twist and tilt the blocker as you lift the blocker. If the soil won’t stay on the blocker, add a bit more water and pack the soil a bit harder.
Place the blocker with contained soil bottom down in your tray. With one hand, press down with the eye bolt. With the other hand, gently raise the cylinder, twisting the cylinder as it rises.
You should be left with a nice, compacted soil block on your tray. The eye bolt and nuts will leave a good depression to place seeds.
Once you have made several blocks, place a seeds or two in each block depression, then cover lightly with a bit of mix.
Be sure to keep your blocks moist, watering them daily. Once the seeds sprout, you can remove the lid from the container.
Depending on your plants, you can usually transplant 2-4 weeks after they spout. Handle the blocks with care during transplanting, and use a spatula make sit easy to lift the blocks out of the tray and into their new home.
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Make Super Cheap Seed Starters: If you want to start your plants indoors weeks before you can put them into the ground, soil blocks is the way to go. They have many advantages, but the main one is that soil blocks GREATLY reduce transplant shock, leaving you with more survivors i…